Portfolio Category: Surfing

Surfing is Thrilling and Difficult

Surfing is the most primal and elemental of all water sports. It is among the most thrilling, most difficult, and, if you ask the surfers themselves, most spiritual of all sports. It is also one of the oldest. Surfing is one of the few sports to boast both an ancient and a modern history. That,…
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The History of Surfing

Though there is some debate, the first surfers were probably residents of modern-day Peru who lived around 2000 years ago. These ancient Peruvians, who lived before the European conquest of South America, and even before the rise of the great Incan civilization, would practice surfing by riding the waves of the Pacific Ocean off their…
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Ancient Polynesians and Surfing

Surfing was also developed by the ancient Polynesians. This early form of surfing seems to have had more in common with modern surfing than the Peruvian version, though both sports were essentially the same, with some distinctions of craft and technique. To the Polynesians, especially those who colonized the northeastern point of the Polynesian Triangle…
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Ancient Hawaiians and Surfing

Ancient Hawaiians called their form of surfing "wave sliding," and everything from the selection of the tree from which the wood for the board would be taken, to the construction of the board, to the actual riding of the waves, was considered an essential aspect of the art to be practiced. Three types of trees…
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